The Rise and Rise of the Chip Pizza

 
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Late on a windy, chilly night in pre-season Francavilla al Mare, there’s not a lot of choice when it comes to dinner. Pizza a taglio it must be.

The down-at-heel pizza joint was the only place left open along the stretch of empty road lined with dark somnolent summer accommodation. Not exactly a palace, two or three desultory drinkers in the corner, a cigarette machine, formica tables peeling at the corners.

It’s the kind of place that makes me feel anxious. Pushing open the door takes determination, and I’m suddenly massively aware that I am a foreign woman alone. Not that I imagine anyone is about to attack me - oh, actually that’s not true, the thought did cross my mind - but I just become acutely self-conscious. Nonsense, of course, but it reminds me of how I felt when I entered a pub on my own back in the late seventies or eighties.

Hunger is a great motivator. Once over the threshold, arriving at the counter, all I could focus on was the flagrantly in-your-face chip and frankfurter pizza. Oh. Oh. Oh. In the end the food snob in me won out and I plumped for a sensible square of the sensible gorgonzola and pumpkin slice. Not at all bad; a combination I may try out in the autumn.

 
Francavilla al Mare beach, out of season

Francavilla al Mare beach, out of season

 

My Italian friend Mariella, a formidable cook, texts me to say that she just loves chip pizza. Now I definitely wish I’d tried it. My only excuse is that there was no ketchup, and you can’t have chips without ketchup, can you?

Two days later, in a motorway service station, I encounter what is surely the acme of the chip pizza world. Verging on a chip calzone with style and attitude, it it surely the creation of an inspired (or mind-numbingly bored) fast-catering chef.

 
Italian service stations showing us how it’s done!

Italian service stations showing us how it’s done!

 

Eat your heart out Roadchef and Welcome Break. Here comes the revenge of a chef who has done with the tyranny of the deep-fat fryer!


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